I’m not going to lie, I’d never heard of Arnhem prior to my husband applying for a job here while we were trying to move abroad. Apparently I wasn’t alone! Most people I’d told about our impending move had never heard of this small-ish city in the east/central Netherlands. Aside from a few WWII history buffs anyway. But there’s more to this city than just war history. It’s also well known for its abundance of green spaces and all of the fashion/shopping options. This is my introductory Arnhem guide, so be sure to come back for updates as I further explore the city!
A Little About Arnhem
You’ll find Arnhem about an hour east of Amsterdam by train and just 20 minutes from the German border. It is the capital of Gelderland, which is the largest of the 12 Dutch provinces. While it isn’t the province’s largest city, that title goes to nearby Nijmegen, it’s still home to a little over 170,000 people. For reference for my American readers, similar US cities (combination of population, city size, and population density) include Fort Lauderdale, FL, and Pasadena, CA.
Some Arnhem Fun Facts:
- The city has the last remaining trolleybus system in all of the Netherlands.
- In 1980, Arnhem hosted the sixth Summer Paralympic games after the Olympics host for that year, the Soviet Union, refused to organize them.
- The city is known as a hub for fashion and design, and has two major shopping areas: 7 Streets and Modekwartier.
- Arnhem is home to multiple institutions for higher education, including the HAN University of Applied Sciences and the ArtEZ University of the Arts. HAN is one of the largest applied sciences universities in the country.
Historical Significance – Battle of Arnhem
If you’ve seen the movie A Bridge Too Far (1977), you already know a bit about this World War II battle that did not go the Allies way. The Battle of Arnhem was part of Operation Market Garden, which occurred in September of 1944. The plan was for paratroopers to drop into German-occupied Netherlands and seize 9 different bridges, in order to create a path for Allied troops to invade northern Germany. While a number of other bridges were successfully taken, the forces dropped in Arnhem were heavily outmatched. 8,000 of the 10,000 troops either died, were captured, or went missing. The operation stalled and Arnhem wasn’t retaken by Allied forces until a year later, near the end of the war.
At the time the bridge was called the Rijnbrug, or Rhine Bridge, as it crosses over the Lower Rhine. It was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times during World War II. The current iteration of the bridge was built in 1948 and renamed the John Frost Bridge in 1977, after the Major-General who commanded the British forces at the Battle of Arnhem.
Arnhem Districts & Neighborhoods
The city is divided into three main districts: Noord (North), Zuid (South), and Centrum (Central), and then even further by neighborhoods. Centrum is the super-walkable heart of the city where the main train station is, and is full of shopping, bars, and restaurants. Noord is a bit of a mix – the artsy fashion district, lots of nature, and bustling residential neighborhoods. Zuid is south of the river and is a bit more modern than the other two districts. It’s mostly residential areas and green spaces.
There are 24 distinct neighborhoods (quarters) in Arnhem, but I’ll just highlight a few:
- Spijkerkwartier: Arnhem’s former red-light district. Now it’s known for being a diverse area with lots of specialty grocers, bakeries, and other stores catering to the students and international population that lives there.
- Klarendal: Arnhem’s fashion quarter. This neighborhood is packed full of boutique shopping, restaurants, and cafes.
- Rijnkwartier: Along the banks of the Rhine. What used to be a key industrial area is now home to waterfront cafes and cruise ship docks.
- Schuytgraaf: Modern residential area. This newer neighborhood, where you’ll find the Zuid train station, has become popular with young families and immigrants looking for a more suburban feel.
Getting Around
While Centrum and the areas around it are very walkable, you’ll definitely need to use some mode of transportation to get further out from the city center. Thankfully there are plenty of options!
Public Transportation
Arnhem has 4 train stations: Centraal (the hub), Velperpoort (slightly northeast), Presikhaaf (east), and Zuid (south of the river). Centraal is the main station for all of Gelderland. From here you can take a Nederlandse Spoorwegen (NS) intercity train to most other major Netherlands cities, and a number of international rail trains (Deutsche Bahn) run to cities in Germany. The other smaller stations are served by local sprinter/stoptrein lines, which you can also find info for on the NS website.
Both inside and just outside Centraal you’ll find the city’s main bus station. All lines end up here at some point, and then it’s just a 5 minute walk to the city center! There are over 30 bus lines that serve Arnhem, which are operated by RRReis (formerly Breng). I personally just tap on and off using my Google Wallet, but you can also use physical debit cards or the OV-pas card.
Biking
Before moving to the Netherlands, I’d never seen such amazing bike infrastructure before. There are segregated bike paths, dedicated bike traffic signals at intersections, and it basically feels like bikes rule the roads. You may be surprised to see almost nobody wearing helmets, not just in Arnhem but in the Netherlands as a whole. Between how common biking is in the country, the early age people start to ride bikes, and the strict rules/biking infrastructure that is in place, bike riding is seen as a very safe activity. So much so that many consider wearing a helmet unnecessary.
There are a variety of options for visitors wanting to rent a bike in Arnhem: NS OV-fiets (at Centraal station), Swapfiets (for visits to the Netherlands longer than a month), or a number of local bike rental companies.Scattered around the city are a number of underground bike parking facilities, which are often free during the daytime or for the first 24 hours. Most, if not all, are staffed with a security guard. You’ll also find bike racks pretty much everywhere you look. Just make sure you have two separate locks, especially if your bike is new and electric!
Things to Do
Below are highlights of a few things I’ve done in the city so far, as well as what’s on my list next as I explore my new home.
Visit the Open Air Museum
This 44 hectare (100 acre) park, called the Openluchtmuseum in Dutch, introduces visitors to the history of Dutch daily life. You’ll find over 100 historical buildings that have been transported here over the years from all over the country, including factories, vacation homes, mills, restaurants, farmhouses, and more. Make sure to take a ride on the vintage tram and check out the working brewery and bakery on site!
Hoeferlaan 4, 6816 SG – Website.
Take a Walk or Bike Ride in A Park
Arnhem is known for being full of beautiful green spaces, so there are plenty of options to choose from if you’re looking to spend some time in the fresh air. Park Sonsbeek, located just north of the city center, is my personal favorite so far! Here you’ll find plenty of walking and running paths, a teahouse, a waterfall, and even an 18th century mansion. During the summer and early fall (although not held every year) the park is home to what is apparently Europe’s oldest public art exhibition!
Other parks in the city:
- Park Zypendaal – Directly adjacent to Park Sonsbeek to the north. Home to Zypendaal House, an 18th century country estate that you can tour on the first and third Sunday of the month.
- Park Angerenstein – Northeast. Another park featuring an old country estate house. The park is over 250 years old.
- Park Klarenbeek – North. Arnhem’s first city park is full of woodlands, paths, and open pastures.
- Park Presikhaaf – East. This park is on the smaller side, and is used for events, sports, walking, picnics, and barbecue.
- Musispark / Lauwerspark – In the heart of the city. While these are technically two separate parks, they make up the central green corridor that runs through Arnhem.
- Stadsblokken-Meinerswijk – Nature preserve in Arnhem Zuid. This unique floodplain park is full of ponds and paved/unpaved paths. The area is designed to safely flood during heavy rain.
- Immerloo Park – Arnhem Zuid. This 18 hectare park is home to one of the top disc golf courses in all of the Netherlands.
- Park Stadsblokken – Nature preserve in Arnhem Zuid. Another massive (300 hectare) floodplain park, located on the banks of Nederrijn River.
Nearby National Parks:
- Nationaal Park Veluwezoom – Located in Rheden, this is the oldest national park in the Netherlands. They have highland cows! Which is a huge draw for me.
- Het Nationale Park De Hoge Veluwe – slightly larger than Veluwezoom, this national park is located north of the Burgers’ Zoo. It’s where you’ll find the Kröller-Müller Museum, which has the second largest Van Gogh collection.
Park Sonsbeek – Zijpendaalseweg 24A, 6814 CL.
Visit Robbers Wine House and the Dutch Wine Museum
Learn about the history of wine and the winemaking process, explore the wine cellars, and do a wine tasting! Tours of the wine museum are held on Fridays and Saturdays, but unfortunately they’re only done in Dutch. But if you reach out well in advance (and are willing to pay an additional fee) you can schedule a private tour with an English-speaking guide. We’re waiting to do that ourselves once we’ve got a larger group! The Robbers Wine House also has a bottle shop and wine bar where you can do tastings or just stop by for a glass. Highly recommend the 5 glass tasting, as the staff makes selections based on your taste preferences and they really know what they’re doing!
Velperweg 23, 6824 BC – Website.
Additional Arnhem Itinerary Ideas
The Eusebius Church – Kerkplein 1, 6811 EB.
At the top of Arnhem’s tallest building you’ll find a 360 degree view of the city from their glass observation area. Explore the ground floor museum and crypts underneath as well while you’re there.
Historic Underground Cellars – Oude Oeverstraat 4a, 6811 JX.
Tour a series of medieval cellars dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries, located directly beneath the main shopping streets in the center of Arnhem!
Burgers’ Zoo – Antoon van Hooffplein 1, 6816 SH.
Located right next to the Open Air Museum, this popular zoo is one of the Netherlands’ largest.
Airborne Museum at the Bridge – Rijnkade 150, 6811 HD.
Interested in learning more about the Battle of Arnhem and John Frost Bridge? Head to this free museum!
Where to Eat & Drink
As a foodie, I was worried I wouldn’t have as many options in Arnhem as I’d come to expect in Philadelphia (mostly because of the city’s size). But so far I’ve been pleasantly surprised! There is a pretty wide variety of cuisines to choose from, which I’d assume is thanks to the large immigrant population that lives here. Below I’ve highlighted some of my favorite spots along with ones that I’m planning to check out next!
Coffee & Baked Goods
PRUT specialty coffee – Nieuwstad 2, 6811 BL.
This is one of my favorite spots for a cup of coffee, in part because they always have two types of beans to choose from for your espresso, each with a different flavor profile.
Bakkerista – Steenstraat 81, 6824 CG.
I love stopping by this coffee shop and artisanal sourdough bakery for baked goods, a quick breakfast, or sandwiches for lunch.
Bij Ann – at the Centrum Markt (farmers market), next to the Eusebius Church.
This little coffee and treats trailer is only around on market days – Friday and Saturday. You really can’t make a wrong choice, but my personal favorites are the stroopwafel blondie and snickers brownie!
Bakkerij Karel – Driekoningenstraat 39, 6828 EM.
This is where you can get hands down my favorite sourdough loaf in the city so far. Beware there is often a line out the door on the weekends!
Bars & Restaurants
Cafe Vrijdag – Velperbuitensingel 21-A, 6828 CV.
This was the first place we tried after moving to Arnhem and has since become our go-to for drinks, snacks, or dinner. I still need to stop in one day for coffee – because they do that too!
Proeflokaal de Hoppenaar – Zwanenstraat 4, 6811 DD.
If you love to try a variety of different beers like I do, look no further than this tasting room in the heart of Arnhem. They also have a bottle shop a few streets away!
ZafVino – Zwanenstraat 22, 6811 DD.
This Italian restaurant and wine bar, while not having the fastest service around (so keep that in mind), is perfect for pasta lovers and anyone who appreciates not being rushed.
Cafe Eijck – Bovenbeekstraat 28, 6811 CV.
On a warm day grab a seat outside at this cafe and people watch while you eat dinner or sip a glass of wine. Or head inside for more of a modern pub feel.
Bistrobar Madame Brioche – Spijkerlaan 18, 6828 EC.
New to the Arnhem restaurant scene, having just opened in May of 2026, this smashburger restaurant also serves loaded fries, milkshakes, homemade lemonades, and beers from their partner craft brewery.
On My List to Try Next
Walt – Koningstraat 16B, 6811 DE.
Located in the old city center, this cafe is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch, or a cup of coffee made with beans imported from a roaster in Milan.
The Church Restaurant – Spoorwegstraat 10, 6828 AS.
Modern French cuisine served in a former Lutheran church, which is also home to a boutique hotel.
De Blauwe Hoek – Spijkerlaan 1, 6828 EB.
This Turkish restaurant, whose name means “the blue corner”, has been around since 1974 and is raved about by locals and visitors alike.
The Green Rose – Koningstraat 50, 6811 DH.
This fine dining bistro focuses on seasonal dishes and is a popular special occasion date spot in Arnhem.
Yi Mian Soju – Jansbinnensingel 2a, 6811 AJ.
On the menu you’ll find a variety of Asian street food dishes, Korean fried chicken, and Chinese hot pot. There are also two other Yi Mian restaurants in the city: a noodle bar and OSAKA.
Where to Stay
While I haven’t yet stayed in any of these places myself, they’re the spots I’ve recommended so far to anyone planning to visit us (who don’t want to sleep on our oversized couch…).
Holiday Inn Express Arnhem – Nieuwe Oeverstraat 50, 6811 JB.
This 3-star hotel is conveniently located just a 5 min bus ride or 10 min walk from Arnhem Centraal. It’s in the heart of the city near plenty of stores, restaurants, and bars.
Boutique hotel The Church – Spoorwegstraat 10, 6828 AS.
If you’re looking for something a little more unique, why not stay in a church turned 14-room hotel?
Hotel Karel – Driekoningenstraat 39a, 6828 EM.
This place is TINY – just 4 suites – and expensive, but people rave about it and say it’s worth the splurge. Bakkerij Karel is on the ground floor where you can grab a coffee and pastries for breakfast.
What would you want to see and do in Arnhem, Netherlands? Let me know in the comments!
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