A Train Lovers Guide to Train Travel in Germany


Jasper at R&D Cocktail Bar

Growing up in the US with a railroad running behind my house was where my love of trains started. Back in 2020 I realized one lifelong dream, working with trains, and recently I checked another off my list by finally visiting Germany. I spent hours happily digging into the finer details of train travel in Germany in preparation for our week-long trip. While some of the things I found were to be expected, other statistics surprised me!

Back in 2017, Boston Consulting Group ranked Germany fourth in their European Rail Performance Index. This ranking takes into account three major factors; intensity of use, quality of service, and safety. Considering the rail powerhouses of Sweden, Denmark, and Finland took the podium, Germany’s position made sense. The train network in the US is unfortunately majorly lacking compared to its European counterparts. I honestly can’t imagine how they would have ranked. While the US dwarfs Germany in total length of track (257,000km vs 21,000km), Germany moves significantly more passengers per year (3 Billion vs 535 Million). After a week in Germany, I now feel like I can compare the two with a little more authority.


History of German Railroads

The history of Germany’s railroads can be split into four different eras (to steal from Taylor Swift a bit). The Early Years and Unification Eras are where Germany’s rail network started off and exploded onto the scene. Then came The Split and Reunification Eras, which laid the foundation for modern day railroading in Germany.

Modern train history in Germany began in 1835, with the opening of the Bavarian Ludwig Railway line between Nuremberg and Fürth. This 6 km (3.7 mile) line designed to alleviate traffic on the busiest road in Bavaria at the time.

Four years later, the Leipzig-Dresdner Eisenbahn-Compagnie (Leipzig-Dresden Railway Company) completed the construction of the first long-distance railway. Connecting Leipzig and Dresden, this 116 km (72.1 mile) long railway included the 513 meter (just over 1/4 mile) long Oberau Tunnel, which was the first standard gauge rail tunnel in continental Europe.

vintage steam locomotive

Over the next 40 years, the train system in Germany expanded rapidly. The unification of the various private and state-owned railway companies into a nationalized company occurred in 1871. This significantly boosted the already rapid growth. By the time 1880 came around, there were 9,400 trains moving 43,000 passengers and 30,000 tons of freight per year. This shot Germany to the forefront of modern railroads.

This era of unification also gave rise to what is called the Nebenbahn (branch line) – aka secondary, neighborhood, or local lines. In this hub-and-spoke model, each major city has a main hub called a Hauptbahnhof (main/central station) or Hbf for short. From the central station, the lines branch out into various different smaller stations and towns. This is usually accomplished by U-Bahn or S-Bahn services, but more on that later.

The second world war is where the stereotypical German efficiency made its debut in the rail network. In an effort to reduce construction times and reliance on imported materials, locomotives took on a simplified design known as the Kriegslokomotive (war locomotive). The DRB Class 52 is the most common of this type, with more than 6,300 built between 1942 and 1945.

By the end of world war two, Germany was divided into 4 main zones: American, British, French, and Soviet. The first three combined into what was known as West Germany, while the Soviets formed East Germany. This also split the existing train network in Germany into the Deutsche Bundesbahn (West) and Deutsche Reichsbahn (East).

While the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 and the official reunification of Germany in October 1990 were important times for the people of Germany, the train network had a few more years to wait. The Bahnreform (Railway Reform), which merged the two state railways, went into effect in January of 1994. What was formed has since been known as Deutsche Bahn (DB).

This reform was originally seen as the first step towards railway privatization. DB operated as a federally-owned joint stock company, with plans to sell stocks to private companies. Thankfully it didn’t take too long for the German railway system to become liberalized. DB lost its monopoly in 1996, opening up regional services to competition and open bidding. Unfortunately the Great Recession of 2008 delayed, and ultimately cancelled, full privatization efforts.

monochrome hamburg railway architecture

Types of German Rail Travel

As mentioned in my previous train travel post, Germany has three types: U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and Long Distance/High Speed. This will be a deeper dive into the different types along with our experience with each of them.

In Germany there are four main U-Bahn train systems, which are located in Berlin, Hamburg, Munich, and Nuremberg. Each system is run by their respective city transit authorities. While they technically don’t have a U-Bahn, some cities like Frankfurt also refer to part of their Stadtbahn (city train) as the U-Bahn. This is to help differentiate it from the rest of the city’s S-Bahn system. It’s a bit confusing. Much like the name suggests, these rail systems run almost exclusively underground in very short intervals – with the trams at street level being the exception. A typical U-Bahn trip from end to end only takes about 30 minutes. Our wait time at the station was usually less than 5 minutes. Even times when we happened to miss a train, the next one was along within a couple minutes.

Overall we enjoyed our experience with the U-Bahn systems we encountered. It helped that we have lived in a few major cities with metros (NYC and Philly), so previous exposure to the system type was helpful. One thing that really stood out to me was the efficiency with which cities in Germany run their train systems. They are able to run U-Bahn lines with smaller cars/less seats, but much more frequently without compromising comfort. Our only complaints during the trip were the lack of AC in the trams in Frankfurt (we were there at the tail end of a heat wave), and having to get off a tram in Munich due to a car accident. Not that they could do anything about the second one!

Frankfurt

Frankfurt’s U-Bahn consists of 9 lines, all of which are short – between 15 and 28 stations. Our experience was strictly with the U5 and PtB Tram rolling stock, and compared to some of the outdated systems that we have experienced in America it was very enjoyable. The train cars were almost entirely walkthrough, meaning no having to go through a door to get to the next car. Additionally, the spacing inside the cars was superb, even on full trains during rush-hour we never felt cramped. I wish I could say the same for the subways in New York City and Philadelphia. If you know, you know.

Stuttgart

The U-Bahn in Stuttgart seems more like an S-Bahn, consisting of 16 lines with between 11 and 46 stations each, with travel times reaching an hour. This “U-Bahn” has five active types of train cars, all of which are variants of the SSB (Stuttgart StadtBahn) S-DT 8. Again we found the cars to be very spacious, clean, and comfortable. Frankfurt’s U-Bahn cars have a teal color scheme, while Stuttgart’s colors are yellow and black.

Munich

Munich’s U-Bahn (one of the true U-Bahn’s in Germany) is in a class of its own compared to the others we experienced. Munich is the modern day standard, with 6 main lines and 2 booster lines that only run during rush hour (U7) or Saturdays (U8) – each with between 15 and 20 stations. The MVG Class B trains continued the themes from the previous two cities: space and comfort were at the forefront and we never had to wait more than a couple minutes for a train. Additionally the Munich U-Bahn trains run at 80km/h (50 mph), which is the fastest U-Bahn in Germany!

U-Bahn Outside - Munich

S-Bahn in Germany usually stands for one of three different names that are very similar: Stadtbahn, Schnellbahn (rapid train), or the combo Stadtschnellbahn (rapid city train). These are similar to most major cities light rail networks, think the Regional Rail in Philadelphia or Metro North and LIRR in New York City. S-Bahns typically run less frequently than the U-Bahns, every 20 mins is normal, but also have much larger systems and routes. The systems we took ranged from 215km to 434km of total track, two to four times larger than the largest U-Bahn system we rode.

We didn’t have much interaction with the S-Bahn systems during our time in Frankfurt and Munich. Oddly enough we only used them in those cities at the bookends of our trip, when coming from and going to the airport. We never felt overly cramped for space, even though these were essentially packed airport trains. The Munich S-Bahn even had padded bars in some spots to allow you to lean comfortably when you couldn’t sit down.

On the other hand, we did spend a significant amount of time on Stuttgart’s S-Bahn system. I was 100% responsible for this, as the two car museums I wanted to see were located in outer neighborhoods of Stuttgart. Both our trip back from the Mercedes museum and the longer trip out to the Porsche museum were wonderful. While the station at Neckarpark was down a random road behind the Mercedes factory, it was clean and well taken care of. The Porsche museum had its own dedicated station making it easy to find. The Class 430 trains we took back to the hotel were quiet, fast, and comfortable. After a few hours walking around museums it was all we could ask for.

Now this may just be a me thing, but Long-Distance and High Speed trains are the top of the list when it comes to trains. So being able to go to Germany to experience what I consider to be the best high speed train in the world, the ICE (InterCity Express), was certainly a core memory. Unfortunately we only got take two trips, from Frankfurt to Stuttgart and then on to Munich, but we did get the full DB experience on one of them.

DB runs a ton of different ICE variants, with some for testing (ICE S), international travel (ICE 3neo), and even tilting ones (ICE T). However the most likely ones you will see are the main four generations: ICE 1, 2, 3, and 4. The ICE 1 and 2 were built and put into service back in the early and late 90’s. They are a grand testament to German engineering, as 101 of the 106 trainsets are still in active service. Unfortunately we didn’t get to experience either of these types, but we did ride in a ICE 3 and 4.

The trip from Frankfurt to Stuttgart was originally scheduled to be on ICE 573, which was running an ICE 4 train set. In a spot of luck, that train got delayed. Now I know most wouldn’t consider a delay lucky, but it meant that an ICE 3neo replaced it from Frankfurt, running as ICE 2933. We were only scheduled to ride ICE 4s during this trip, so it was great to have the opportunity to ride on an ICE 3neo. This was the stereotypical DB delay that we feared would drop our first class seat reservations, as is typical with replacement services. The good news was that we still had reserved seats on the new train. Bad news? We were no longer sitting across from each other. Allison ended up seated at a 4-top with two very nice older German ladies and their dog.

First class is the highest DB offers on their train, and man it does show. The seats are well padded, with large headrests and generous legroom. As to be expected from first class, our long trips were super comfortable. Even if Allison had been sitting across from me with her bag we wouldn’t have disturbed each other.

Normally with first class you can order from your seat, but due to this being a replacement service that wasn’t available. I did venture down to the famous Bordrestaurant (onboard restaurant) car and am pleased to say it lived up to the hype. For a little less than €13 I was able to get 0.5l water, medium hot chocolate, and a butter croissant. Considering that we were in DB’s best train this was a great value. A similar meal at an airport or train station can easily fetch up to $20.

Thankfully, our next trip from Stuttgart down to Munich was much less eventful. While we did still get a typical DB delay of 15 mins, we didn’t have any other major issues. Again we were in first class and enjoyed the comfort and space our seats provided. This wasn’t a replacement service so the menu option was fully available, but since this was a bit later in the day and we’d already eaten neither of us used it.


Tickets

Train tickets in Germany come in one of two different flavors. There is either Deutsche Bahn (DB) tickets or tickets provided by the individual German states. DB being the national rail company of Germany runs a lot of the major lines in the country – all of the long-distance and S-Bahn services are all run by DB. This makes ticketing a bit simpler for longer journeys. Allowing people to travel from one neighborhood to another in a different city within one app is wonderful.

Since DB runs all of the longer routes in the country, they strive to make ticketing as easy as possible. They offer the three traditional ways to purchase a ticket: via app, online, or in person. In my opinion, your best options would be either the DB Navigator app or their website. Both offer the same basic selections, like start and end stations, date/time, and seat type. Additionally you have the option to see not only the fastest route, but also the most direct. But if you need specific help or hate technology there is also the ticket office located at most major stations.

Ticket prices can range wildly depending on the type of trip you are taking. Both of our long-distance trips cost a little less than €155 total. While we normally stick to coach seats, the upgrade to first class wasn’t significantly more expensive and we decided to splurge. Compared to the prices I’ve seen for similar distance trips in the US, this was a steal.

While DB handles the ticketing of the long-distance and S-Bahn, the individual states in Germany control the train tickets for the U-Bahn. The three states we visited each had a different app, which while annoying wasn’t unexpected. Most, if not all, of the cities we’ve visited in the US use different apps for their metro systems as well. Each has their own quirks and different processes for purchasing a ticket.

Frankfurt

The Rhein-Main-Verkehrsverbund (RMV), Rhein-Main Transport Association in English, covers our first city of Frankfurt. Being that Frankfurt is a European financial hub, its unsurprising that the RMV app is easily the most user friendly. After opening the app, you’re prompted to select both the starting and ending station. You’re able to set the starting location to your current location, which allows the app to suggest the closest station and provide you the best route to your destination. You can select if you want just a single trip, or day, week, or month long tickets and Deutschland ticket. After selecting your preference there are plenty of different ways to pay. We opted for PayPal each time due to us being international and not having European payment methods. Ticket prices are very reasonable, with two unlimited trip day tickets costing less that €15/day.

Stuttgart

Stuttgart is governed by the Verkehrs-und Tarifverbund Stuttgart (VVS), aka the Transport and Tariff Association of Stuttgart. VVS’s app is similar to the RMV one in that the prompts are generally the same. However it did lack the option of showing additional ways to get there (like walking). Like Frankfurt, you first select the stations and ticket type (day, week, month). Next you’re asked to select the zones, which can be a bit jarring if you weren’t prepared for this question. This is especially true when the app doesn’t always translate properly. You need to know which zone you’re in and which you’re traveling to. Thankfully all of downtown Stuttgart was in Zone 1, so for us it was fairly straightforward. Google Pay was an option here so at least that part was simple! Again, pricing was very reasonable and we spent less than €12/day on tickets for two people.

Munich

The Münchner Verkehrs- und Tarifverbund (MVV), Munich Transport and Tariff Association, was the last state ticketing service that we had to use. MVV’s app was not much different from RMVs, as Munich is another major international city and the capital of Bavaria. Again you’ll select your start and end locations, type of ticket, and payment method. The only quirk with this one was the actual payment selection. There were a few times where it wouldn’t validate my credit card. This led to some stressful moments trying to buy tickets as the train was approaching. Prices here unsurprisingly were the highest of the three cities, with two single-day tickets being just under €20.


Hauptbahnhof Highlights

Being the “train nerd” that I am, getting to experience the three main types of train sheds you will find in Germany was a treat. There are only two other stations in Germany that I was disappointed we couldn’t make it to. Firstly is the Berlin Hbf in the capital city. This station is a gorgeous all glass through station sitting just off the Spree river. Lastly there is Hamburg Hbf in the northern most part of the country. While it is a through station with on 8 main line platforms it sees an average of 550,000 passengers per day! The only station in Europe that sees more is the famous Gare Du Nord in Paris.

Frankfurt Hbf was my personal favorite station, and easily the most gorgeous of the three we visited. It has the neoclassical half domes reminiscent of Italy’s Milano Centrale (which we’ve also been to). Each of the domes has a significant portion of glass built into it which lets in a generous amount of light. Even on an overcast day like we had there was more than enough light to see clearly. For the train nerds, this gave perfect lighting to take pictures of all the various types of trains that arrive/depart at that station.

Being that Frankfurt is a major connection point for international trains and travel, the offerings inside the station are vast. The DB Reisenzentrum (travel center) and accompanying first class lounge are front and center when you get into the station. Opposite the platforms in the main hall you have all your typical food and drink offerings. There are American brands like Dunkin, Burger King, and Starbucks, but also plenty of local options as well. Between the entrance hall and the main train hall there are nearly 50 different shops, cafes, and bakeries, with selections that range from souvenirs and trinkets, to pizza, coffee, and muffins.

Stuttgart Hbf has your modern day standard platforms with individually covered sections, granted this will be changing in the next few years when the station renovation completes. Stuttgart’s modern open air design again allows for plenty of natural light on even the cloudiest of days. The only downside is that there is much less protection from the elements. This is especially tough as the city sits in a valley and has fast and furious weather changes.

As another major station in the DB network, its 16 tracks and lack of extensive offerings in shops and cafes was a bit disappointing. This was partially due to Stuttgart Hbf currently undergoing a massive renovation called Stuttgart 21. The plan is to change the station from a terminal station, where trains have to stop and turn around to keep going, into a through station. If you want some additional information about the renovation project, you can read more about it here. It is estimated to be completed in 2026.

Munich Hbf has more modern shape, with a large square shed overhanging all of the tracks. Similar to the glass sections in Frankfurt’s dome, Munich’s also provide decent natural light. However it is a bit more blocky and broken up, so the lighting can definitely be lacking at times. The shed is about as German as it gets: functional, minimalistic, and well planned out. You’ll notice in front of the main platforms that there is a lack of amenities and shops. This helps with congestion, as it is easier to move around with all of that space opened up.

As you get closer to the exit of the main hall, the crowds tend to split off and thin out. This makes for the best place to put all of the shops and cafes – tucked around the corner as you are heading out of the station. It creates a nice corridor of some of the important things you might need for your day. Food if its been a long trek, coffee if you need a boost before a meeting, or maybe even a spot to pick up a trinket for your memories.


LET’S KEEP IN TOUCH!

Subscribe to my newsletter for new post alerts, behind the scenes content, travel news, upcoming trips and more!

We don’t spam! Read our privacy policy for more info.



Leave a Reply


Short Girl Travels

See the world from my perspective

©2023 - 2025 Short Girl Travels

Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information

Discover more from Short Girl Travels

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading